Meursault les Tillets

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

Bright and fairly translucent light gold robe with discreet green highlights and plenty of vibrancy. A particularly fresh wine; the aromas, however, remain closed; above all, the nose expresses the altitude of the plot and manages to communicate a cool sensation, which is quite a feat in the context of this vintage. After intense solicitation, the liquid releases aromas of pear and white peach; the lemon progresses with aeration; mandarin, clementine; the temperature doesn’t drop; bright minerality from the limestone base; pebbles; a subtly saline atmosphere; complex spices producing sophisticated aromas – minuscule amounts of clove, white pepper, Espelette pepper, green cardamom, juniper berries, a touch of ginger; the freshness remains impressive despite the rise in temperature of the glass. Meadow flowers, tall grasses and ferns.
Palate of very ripe citrus fruits loaded with spices; orange with a trace of Sichuan pepper; Boskoop apple with the peppery note of strong cloves; a hint of apricot jam; mirabelle jam; a note of kumquat; orange zest; a little mango coulis; a half-white, half-yellow peach coulis; perfect balance – or even better than perfect.
The finish is of amazing intensity; the grape density is impressive; wonderful length and remarkably focused body; the expression of the soil is powerful and persists for a very long time; the wine penetrates the body – rare for a wine of this age.
A resounding success; the perfect understanding between the maturity that comes with the vintage and the geographical location of the plot; this 2022 vintage produces a Tillets that easily attains the premier cru level.
Pair with delicate fish – brill and John Dory, as with the Meursault; in this case, however, a little more spice can be added; we can risk pairing with greens – sorrel, spinach or celery – but only after laying down for five or six years; it’s possible to shorten this period a little with langoustines à la Bernard Pacaud or spiny lobster served en Bellevue.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

Les Tillets is even fresher than Les Meix Chavaux; the nose is downright cold with aromas of lemon sorbet and peppery pear sorbet. The white flower pollen that floats in the air is also cold, like flowers from northern countries or high alpine pastures; with sufficient aeration, the flowers soften and we discover a whole bunch of small flowers – pansies, violets, cornflowers, lavender; the freshness remains with us, evoked by the sensation of greenery and tall grasses. Then, there’s a lactic element with notes of whipped cream, whipped crème fraîche; discreet notes of baking bringing tart pastry to mind; traces of pears and Mirabelle plums.
The palate comes with a beautiful fruit juice, apricot, pear, apple, a touch of mango, another of blood orange, a peppery pineapple, citrus peel, lemon and grapefruit, the peel draws out bitterness; the empyreumatic notes that are, yet again, present, bring a burnt lemon aspect; it would appear that this mix of freshness (lemon sorbet or frozen lemon sorbet) and heat is characteristic of the vintage.
The final is tight, mineral; compacted earth, concentrated rock; very long; a serious wine. Serve with lean fish roasted, or with Norway lobster or scallops; surf rather than turf.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

The 2020 Tillets are clearly showing signs of success; we immediately recognise the judicious choice of the harvest date and the maturity of the exultant fruits; the juice is perceived on the nose as if already on the palate; we’re biting into an apple, a pear and an apricot without having to place them in our mouths as the sensation feels so real. Lavender appears again, and fields of flowers near Saint Paul de Vence or Grasse, cornflowers and violets, ethereal scents of fragrant blossoms, liquorice notes, verbena, iodine, salt, a maritime limestone effect straight from Chablis.
The palate is as juicy as you’d expect, concentrated pear juice, powerful peppercorns and chilli peppers, formidably spicy; that this could come from the soil of Tillets is hard to believe, with pepper so present on the palate – how is it even possible? Reinette and Granny Smith apples, Conference and Beurré Hardy pears, grapes, peaches in syrup, a hint of pineapple, a smidgen of apricot, peppery verbena.
The finish is tense and focused, sapid, unimaginably so, and almost salty, persistent; oyster shell from the open seas, salt and peppered prawns; really unbelievable!
Salt-crusted sea bass, cuttlefish or squid à la plancha, or seafood gratin later on, pan-seared prawns with spices, paella marinera, and a match made in heaven with saffron rice.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

Superb bright luminous robe. All of a sudden, we’ve climbed more than 80 metres up the slope and the notes of fine herbs and the aromatic waters of Moulin Landin have become a reality; they are right here, wafting to and fro, causing confusion on the taster’s nose. Sense the fresh thyme, verbena, fresh bay leaf, basil, coriander; we note Granny Smith apple, Beurre Hardy pear, a green plum. This is the seductive sweetness of the Pré de Manche – the delicate halo of perfume and botany of the Moulin Landin has disappeared. Now, we get more of the scent of the forest, of heather, the bark of trees in spring – lime and birch; moss at the foot of the trees; and now, notes of eucalyptus, and green tea.
The palate is closely aligned with the nose; apple skins – Granny and Reinette, Conference pear, Reine Claude plum; and the flavour of quince is present, and of persimmon; it’s juicy, expressive and nourishing; the structural balance is just perfect, but where is the alcohol? And where are the oak barrels?
A powerful finish: the complete integration of the soil and the fruit which have become one; very focused; the maturation is discreet and perfectly mastered – the tannins from the oak are almost completely integrated at this stage; there is good length which will only improve with two or three more years in the cellar. In a few years, pair with brill or salmon with sorrel, or a seafood blanquette.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

Climbing up to the heights of the area, you change gears, you leave the phenomenal density of the clayey-limestone areas where water has hardly penetrated, making the clay play the role of a heavyweight, to refine the structures and clarify the purpose. We are 350 metres above sea level and what is more, we are exposed to the east, a morning sun, less violent, less omnipresent. The Tillets therefore offer a more floral nose, lilac, lily of the valley, violet, fruits close to white peach, vine peach, a hint of Canada apple and spices of a peppery grape with musky notes and a hint of cardamom. The palate is here more juicy and more elastic, with more fruit, especially apples, the Reinette but also other types. The wine remains very spiced, peppery, almost hot, very rigid with remarkable persistence.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

A rarity for this demonstration of the Tillets plot, whose ethereal side, poetic, even mysterious, aromatics, to wholly justify this choice on the part of the winemaker. Refined nose, as subtle as it is elegant, dried fruits, pine nuts, hazelnuts and peanuts, icing sugar, flowers, violets and white flowers, peppery grapes, a subtle and aromatic complexity that push these Tillets closer to a Genevrières. Comice pear on the palate, with dried fruit and citrus, orange fruit paste, bitter orange, a perfectly full-bodied and lengthy finish, lasting an eternity.