Meursault

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

Brilliant light gold robe, embellished with slight green highlights – to be expected at this stage. The freshness is present, as always – perhaps even more markedly than in the already very fresh Saint-Aubin. Plenty of air; wonderful purity; and the rock is present, which here produces light, clarity, brilliance; white fruits, intermingled – pear, white peach and apple; vanilla and lactic notes – lassi, cold milk; pristine marble; small white flowers and, in particular, potent daisies; Menton lemon is lurking and there’s a hint of kiwi. When aerated, a haze of white pepper gradually forms, tinted with eucalyptus leaves, and a pretty elegant chervil note. Prolonged aeration gradually draws out the pear; the sensation of an increasing sweet component from the fruit enhances the sensuality of the whole; pepper notes are also gradually emerging and, in particular, Punjabi white pepper.
A silky mouthfeel, a supple but dynamic body; the citrus fruits, barely detectable on the nose, are vastly more evident on the palate – especially lime, lemon to a lesser extent, and grapefruit even less; an imperceptible maturation process – already perfectly integrated; marmalade with orange but also lemon zest; peppery Williams pear; white peach with notes of passion fruit and mango; cooked verbena and mint.
A particularly sapid finish, causing us to salivate like never before; plenty of precision; the delicate and expressive acidity of citrus fruits; the palate tapers towards limestone rock that lingers at the finish. It is a safe bet to say that the youthful character of this Meursault will persist for a number of years; after laying down for six or seven years, it seems reasonable to marry it with delicate fish rather than white meat – John Dory and brill come to mind rather than sole and turbot; melted butter and chopped chervil rather than Hollandaise sauce; this wine will need ten years in the cellar before pairing with a creamy Bresse chicken and button mushrooms.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

Sensual nose, a festival of delicacies… Pine nuts, almond bits, slightly lemony marmalade, cane sugar, vanilla and thick vanilla yogurt; plenty of flowers too, lavish and captivating – jasmine, mimosa, broom shoots; then, honey and Bêtises de Cambrai boiled sweets, poached pear or approaching caramelised pear; white peach, also caramelised; and île flottante appears again. The vegetal component is sophisticated, not easy to describe – algal bloom mixed with citrus fruits, prickly pear, lemon leaves; a wonderful journey right from the first nose.
Full-bodied and elastic palate; the gourmet aspect is present; flan, île flottante, custard; this wine is very accessible; some characteristics of the whites of Châteauneuf or its surroundings can be noted; frankly, it is long, the palate is coated with a creamy texture, then the chilli becomes apparent, bird’s eye chilli even; we do not expect this sharp, incisive finish, like a slap at the end of the palate; again, this empyreumatic touch that adds spicy energy, a lot of white pepper… We have a wine that is both sensual and almost aggressive; a wine that is easy to drink, but also a wine within a wine; complex. Lay this one down for 3 or 4 years before serving it with salmon steak, Béarnaise sauce and gnocchi; or with fried chicken in sauce elevated with mustard or curry.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

Despite the density imparted by the vintage, familiar faces can be found more easily here – the Meursault decor is in place, showing pear and poached pear, subtly caramelised; the scents that emanate from the window of the pastry shop or the bakery tells us clearly where we are; honey, lavender, hazelnut oil, sesame oil, sweet almond oil, white almonds, toasted hazelnuts, pine nuts; when aerated, it is the spices that take over – Espelette pepper, coriander seeds, juniper berry and caraway, all subtly encircled by a halo of lavender.
The palate has a lot of volume; opulent but smooth and generously fleshy; pear coulis, a mix of apricot and quince (you don’t find that very often); poached mushrooms; getting more and more spicy – downright peppery, the vintage draws out chilli, saffron, Sichuan pepper, mixes reminiscent of curry or Colombo spice; Reinette apple and a discreet note clementine complete the picture.
The finish is invasive, finding its way deep into the body; with such ease, the wine advances further and further; the persistence is almost astonishing – impressive even.
A more classic pairing is recommended here – from roasted scallops to sole meunière; this wine will evolve very well and pair with white meats.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

Light gold robe, green highlights, very luminous. A particularly fresh nose – from small white flowers and elegant fine herbs; chervil, grass, primroses and daffodils, aniseed and sugar candy, icing sugar, ginger and eucalyptus strips, eggshell and Montélimar nougat; energetic and bright. The fruit is discreet – a cocktail of white fruits and citrus intermingled with the fine herbs; we sense kiwi, vine peach, Comice pear, passion fruit; then we come full circle, with the communicative energy of extreme freshness remaining consistent.
The palate is perfectly in keeping with the nose; the citrus fruits resonate more strongly here; orange, kumquat, passion fruit, mango; the expression of the wine is constantly advancing, the citrus fruits adding dynamic zing. The finish is also totally coherent with the story this Meursault has told us so far. Taut like a bow, tantalising with citrus fruits, supported by the fresh and clearly defined mineral structure of the soil; this Meursault, incredibly fresh, tastes like a Meix Chavaux, if it weren’t for the hint of barley sugar and the subtle candied jelly that persists and that brings us back to the south-eastern exposure.
It would not be unheard of to drink it after half an hour in a carafe, with a sole simply grilled and a squeeze of a lemon; or open after a classic laying-down period of five to seven years and enjoy with a delicate fish in a classic butter-based sauce.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

Nose of stewed white fruits, especially pears, a lactic note between churned butter, natural and whipped fresh cream, citrus fruits mingle then we have the dried fruits, more roasted hazelnut and almond, white flowers but also violet then a lot of spices, liquorice, clove, eucalyptus and even cardamom without mentioning the note of sap. The palate showcases more or less the same thing even if in a slightly different order, a cocktail of white fruits and citrus fruits followed by the lactic side with fresh cream, beaten eggs, sugar eggs then orange peel, tangerine, finally spices, multiple peppers, white, Szechuan. The finish is powerful and like before, the arrival of a powerful minerality, deaf with the cast iron, lead, rock. High density in the finish. Same need for air refining, same punishment when serving, eat hot and decant because you have to.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

Meursault is great, how could it not be with this vintage to which all the superlatives apply. Sophisticated pastry, pear and icing sugar, pink biscuit, cinnamon and Dulce de Leche, vanilla, coffee eclair and Puits d’Amour, Catalan cream then some herbs, chervil and coriander, sweet almond oil, hazelnut, cashew nut and peanut butter. Meaty palate, both a dense and supple consistency, hazelnut, Williams pear and Boskoop apple, intense finish with a monster fruit that will stick to you like glue, problem? Perhaps, the minerality may be difficult to identify because of the excessive fruit. A finish that keeps you wanting more, an unprecedented level of persistence for a village with 25 years of professional tasting. Tasted once more an hour later when a little cooler (François offers most of his wine tastings at a temperature around 16°), the “village” is more mineral with herbs, also typical of this vintage, even more energetic, if it were possible, the finish is even more precise.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

Startling resemblance to the previous one, the same in a sport version. Dried fruit, warm butter, pound cake, cashew nuts, mushrooms (isn’t that odd?), marl-clay-earth-turned-chalk, lots of soil. Juicy white fruit palate, Canada apple, Williams pear, poached fruits, elastic material, licorice and pepper, with a floral note of lily of the valley, full-bodied, solid and concentrated, with a good length. All of the plots listed as village are clearly present here, no Limozin or Meix Chavaux wine in 2016.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

The four plots that contributed to this blend were harvested between the 30^th of August for the first, Les Pelles, and the 7^th of September for the last, the Pellans. A nose of poached white fruits, Comice and Conference pears, caramel pear, soft spices, cinnamon and turmeric, grey and black pepper, even a hint of cumin, mineral limestone and charcoal. Spectacularly balanced on the palate with juice and fruit, it is tasty and expressive, with poached white fruits, caramel, nougat, honey, barley sugar, a lot of substance, full, dense and complex, with an almost spicy finish (a very strong note in most of the whites from the vintage), even going as far as saying bird’s eye chilli.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

While the nose is here more expressive, the mouth and especially the finish demonstrate that the wine needs time. The flavours are the classic ones: praline, pear, brown sugar, cinnamon, but afterwards, a concentrate of soil. A sea aspect, sea spray, sea salt, algae, even smoked mackerel or eel, a eucalyptus overtone, white pepper, ginger, almost black radish. Bulky and powerful in the mouth, ripe white fruit, apple and pear, a really perfect balance between fruit, alcohol and acidity. A finish which is long, persistent as regards structure and soil rather than fruit and acidity. Really dense.

Raphael GIMENEZ-FAUVETY ‘s tasting notes – Retailer ; “De Corps et d’Esprit” in Paris

With the Meursault, we find familiarity. The nose is a bit more open and there is salted butter, sweet almond oil, cashew nut, mountain honey, apricot notes, and as usual, whole bread loaf. The palate displays fruit compote served cold, white peach, difficult to describe citrus notes, there is something Japanese in this vintage. Incredibly dense finish, not surprisingly. After 18 hours, a resemblance to 2008 becomes clear. More iodic-sea breeze, more citrus, the finish is even more intense with more fruit. Remember that these are wines that demand time, try to give them some.

Nose of aniseed, Dutch pithiviers, almonds, concentrated but fresh (the whites are all at 15°C and yet taste so fresh), floury country bread, flowers, thick honey, Reblochon rind. Fat on the palate, with sap, lots of balance with a framework of extraordinary structure, the table beckons, perfect in three years with Bresse chicken, in five years with a calf’s head, in ten with chicken cooked in vin jaune, the wine inspires the dining table. Impressive finish with power and density; a big, strong animal!

Candied fruits and dried fruits, white chocolate, then citrus, an unusual blend of ripeness and freshness, hot and cold, one can and one should see a correspondence with the vintage’s weather patterns.  Loose earth, limestone, white truffle, more Italian than Burgundian, a bit meaty, white meat, very Meursault.  With aeration, the nose is more and more airy and the citrus more powerful, the minerality is present, but subtle, eggshell.  Palate with powerful citrus notes, lime and grapefruit, pear, the wine is spicy and particularly peppery.  More and more volume, fleshy, a finish full of citrus, with a note of salt that resembles, somewhat, the 2008 wines.  The alcohol is simply nonexistent amidst the other sensations, again a quality that is characteristic of this vintage, giving you a break from heavy wines.  Beautiful wine.

Deep and intense nose, metal, cast-iron, concentrated, mineral, and dense.  A fruit monster on the palette, poached pear, pear with caramel, spiced grape, caramelized apple.  A phenomenal persistence, the substance and power of a premier cru, I dare say, I could have said Charmes if tasted blindly and I would have been right.  93.  The best Village to date.

Nose of dried fruits, powdered sugar, praline, pine nuts, coriander, cilantro, white chocolate, milk chocolate, hazelnut, all of which gives us a Meursault with inarguable typicality, very easily recognizable blindly.  The palette is also gourmande, with an elastic and voluminous flesh, it’s long, it’s full of fruit and the wine finishes without the slightest trace of heat, one of the only risks of the vintage.

Again with restraint, the nose expresses notes of wax, rosin, winter or Comice pear, the clay soil that will drive it toward white truffle as the wine ages.  The palette is clear, fresh, grape, white fruits dominated by pear, spicy, peppery with gray pepper in particular.  The finish is under tension, almost empyreumatic, a Meursualt that looks over next door to Puligny with a touch of delicate texture, diaphanous, notes of licorice on the finish.

The cuvée of MEURSAULT has its defining qualities, honey, violet, lovely hazelnut and butter, mineral licorice, resin, poached fruits, anise, mimosa and pastry aromas, with structure and fatness in the mouth.